Fairplay - Florence [back]

Today was the day I had been waiting for for weeks. Fairplay sits at an elevation of 10,000 feet and my destination of Florence, 90 miles away, is at an elevation of 5,000. In between the two towns, is a small mountain pass, in which I needed to climb 750 feet, so in all, the total descent for the day was 5,750 feet. Since it is spread out over so many miles, there were only a few stretches where I could coast for more than 5 minutes, but on the sections where I did pedal, I could easily cruise at 20mph.

From a pedalling point of view, the day was fairly easy, but in reality, it was pretty gruelling. Once I started dropping in elevation, the temperature began to rise until it reached a high of 107 near Florence. Because it was so hot, the heat from the eastern plains began to rush up the mountain. Back in Montana, one local tried to explain to me that in the morning and at night, the cold air rushes down from the mountains and in the afternoon, it blows up the mountain. Usually, the greater the temperature difference between the two areas, the stronger the winds. The logic made sense, but usually when I'd be riding along, I never knew if I was riding away from the prevailing wind generating mountain range or riding into it. It just always seemed like I was riding in a crosswind or a headwind. There were definitely a few instances where I had a strong tailwind, but I would say the majority of time, I was fighting the wind.

During this trip, I rode right through the heart of bear country. Now, I've been to Yosemite, Glacier and Yellowstone many times in my life and I've spent plenty of time in the mountains of northern New England and have yet to see a bear, black or grizzly. I kind of remember seeing a bear at a zoo somewhere, but that doesn't really count. I have been fortunate enough to see many other animals (not including the various heads that are displayed in every eatery and saloon that I've been in thus far) including moose, big horn sheep, mountain goats, elk, bison, foxes, coyotes, antelope, and even a bobcat, but to date I've missed the one animal I really want to see.

Just south of the little town of Guffey, there is a fairly steep descent. I know it is steep, because it is marked with my favorite street sign in the world, the picture of a truck pointed at a 45 degree angle going downhill with the words "Use lower gear" below. Anyway, as I started descending the hill and picked up a speed of about 40mph, I noticed a Ford pickup truck in front of me pulled off to the side of the road. The truck had its hazard lights on and two men dressed in US. Forestry outfits were walking towards the back of the truck. In the back of the truck was a 4 foot by 4 foot cage.

As I rode by, I slowed slightly and pulled more to the middle of the road, just to make sure they weren't going to run in front of me or open the door and hit me or throw something at me. I suppose riding your bike to work through downtown San Francisco makes you an extremely defensive rider and conditioned to expect anything. While I haven't been in any serious accidents, I have had car doors opened on me twice, and slid across the hood of a jeep who decided to make a right hand turn without looking for bikers first. Each of those accidents happened at pretty low speeds, but when I'm flying down a mountain around 40mph I take extra precautions.

Anyway, as I got close to the truck and the men, I hadn't the slightest clue what they were doing, then I looked to the left. Up on a hill, about 30 feet away from the road, was a tiny bear cub. He had a light tan body and a dark brown head and was sitting on top of a rock looking at the traffic. It took me a second to process what was going on, and by the time I realized that the bear cub was probably all alone and the forest rangers were going to cage it and bring him to safety, I was already 200 feet downhill. Figuring it would take me another 100 feet to stop, then I'd have to climb all the way back up the hill just to get a picture, I decided to keep on going. Finally I saw my bear, even if it was just a cub and I was flying by at 40mph.

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