Erie - Golden City [back]

Around 10:00 in the morning, I could finally see in the distance what I'd been fantasizing about for days. At first I wasn't sure if my eyes were deceiving me, but as I got closer, it was unmistakable. Several hundred yards ahead of me was the sign that read "Welcome to Missouri." I'm not certain, but I thought I heard angels singing and trumpets playing as I approached. Getting closer to the sign, I was positive I could see the ghosts of bikers past waiting at the border, clapping and cheering. The closer I got, the clearer they became. At first it looked like a white mist, but it's density made me believe that it was in fact the flowing robes of this angelic, congratulatory chorus. Upon seeing the sign and this welcoming haze, I increased my speed, not wanting to spend any longer than was physically necessary in Kansas. When I reached the border, I was immediately stricken with the reality that my mind was playing tricks on me, for my celestial welcoming committee was nothing more than a thick wall of the dreaded humidity.

Amazingly, as soon as you cross the border into Missouri, the humidity becomes so thick that visibility is cut in half and the clear blue skies of Kansas are replaced with a hazy, milky, gray mist. There are however, trees, rolling hills, streams, ponds, grass and farms, so I'm willing to take the bad with the good and enjoy the scenery once again.

That afternoon, I arrived in the town of Golden City. There's not much to Golden City anymore, the main street is basically populated with empty buildings and dilapadated signs that recalled a much more prosperous time before WalMart moved into Lamar 15 miles away. About all that's left in town is a cafe, a bar, and a gas station/convienence store. The one bright spot of the town seemed to be it's city park. While the grass was burned out and brown from the prolonged heat and drought, there was a nice flower garden that seemed dutifully maintained. The park also had a baseball field, two pavillions, one with bleachers and one with picnic tables, and public restrooms. Being extremely hot and humid and just entering the heat of the day, I decided to call it quits and camp in the city park.

Still early, I didn't want to set up my tent, so I parked my bike next to the pavillion with the picnic tables, took out my sleeping pad and spread it across the top of one of the tables. I layed down and took a nap for an hour and a half. When I woke up, I noticed a father and son playing catch on the baseball field, so I continued laying on the table and watched them, happy to have something besides myself to occupy my mind. When they were done, they began to walk back to their house and walked right by me. I greeted them as they passed so the father came over to talk. Apparently they were from St. Louis and were in town to visit his mother who lived on the edge of the park. "How far are you going today?" he asked.

"This is it. It's too hot to go any further."

"Where you gonna stay?"

"Well, I guess I was planning on camping right under that tree over there. The sun's still shining pretty bright, so I figured I'd hang out here until the sun got a little cooler."

"You know there's a place in town that puts up bikers."

"Really?"

"Yeah, I'm not quite sure where, but I'm pretty sure it has beds and air conditioning. A whole lot better than sitting here in the sun."

"I would say so."

"Are you gonna be here for a while?" I nodded yes. "Well, let me go ask my mother where the place is, so we can get you set up for the night and out of this heat."

"That would be great, thanks." So the man and his son continued onto the house and I just layed on the picnic bench watching the birds nest in one of the rafters of the pavillion. About a half hour later, the man returned.

"Well, I got you set up with Paul Throckmorton. He just lives around the block where he's expecting you." The man then proceeded to give me directions to the house when a white BMW pulled up. An older gentleman exited the car and introduced himself as Paul.

"Are you travelling alone?" Paul asked.

"Yup, just me."

"Well, in that case there's no need to put you up in the hostel. I usually use that for bigger groups, but since it's just you, its a lot easier to put you up in my house. Why don't you pack up your stuff and follow me, I just live around the corner." I then thanked the father for hooking me up with Paul, packed up my trailer

That night we sat around his house and watched tv, while Paul did my laundry and served me dinner (far and away the best pot roast I've had on the trip). After dinner, I asked Paul how he got started running the bike hostel. "Well, back in the early 70s when BikeCentennial was first coming through mapping out the route and looking for places to stay, Golden City had a hotel in town that would make room for any bikers that came through. A few years later, the hotel closed up, so my business partner Lowell and I decided to buy the hotel and keep it running as a hostel. We were tired of everything in this town going out of business and just getting run down, so we bought the hotel to keep it from ruin and to also give the bikers a place to stay. Now it's just a lot of fun to meet everyone that comes through, they're all so nice."

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