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Powell - Lolo [back]
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Today was the day I crossed Lolo Pass and the Bitterroot Mountains. It was here that Lewis and Clark's Corps of Discovery expedition almost failed. After many mountain crossings, they reached the extremely difficult terrain of the Bitterroots. Upon reaching the summit, four miles south of Lolo Pass, they expected to be able to look west and see a land of flat praries and a river passage straight to the Pacific. Instead they were greeted with a horizon of mountain range after mountain range and no suitable water passage.
To make matters worse, an early winter storm passed through, dropping a lot of snow and chasing any available game to the lower elevations. With the men in the expedition suffering from malnutrition, fatique and deflated spirits, Lewis and Clark had to rely on the kindness of the Nez Perce Indians to provide them with salmon and other food to sustain their energy and bring back there enthusiasm. Unfortunately, 50 years later, the same Nez Perce Indians, still thinking the Americans remembered their kindness, were driven from their land in the bloody Nez Perce War and forced to sign treaty after treaty ultimately leaving them with only a small plot of land in northern Idaho. After crossing the summit of the Bitterroot Mountains, Lewis and Clark then proceeded to follow the Lochsa River along much of the same route in which I had just biked. While the road I followed was paved and well marked, the wilderness is still much the same as it was in 1803. When I reached the summit of Lolo Pass, I stood and looked west, then imagined myself as a member of the Corps of Discovery and seeing nothing but mountains between me and the Pacific Ocean. Then I looked east and thought about the 4,100 miles I still had to go. Thirty miles east of Lolo Pass is the town of Lolo, Montana. I had just crossed into my third state and decided to call it a day and treat myself to a hotel. There is one hotel in Lolo, so my choices were limited. When I walked into the lobby, there were two bikers standing there that asked "are you Dave from California?" It was Miriam's two kids, her daughter Natalie who just graduated from Princeton and her 15-year old brother, Carl. Coincidentally, they were staying at the same hotel and in the room across the hall from me. That night, they invited me out to dinner with them in Missoula to celebrate Carl's fifteenth birthday. Ralie, the father, was taking a 6 month sebatical from work and decided to ride across America. He has done several bike tours in the past, but much shorter intra-state tours. Riding the TransAmerica Trail had always been a dream of his, and when his work instituted a sebatical policy as well as his daughter expressing interest in doing the ride, he decided that this would be the year he gave that "wild hair" some attention. With Miriam agreeing to drive the support vehicle, poor Carl had no choice but to spend his summer biking 4,000 miles across the nation. Being a 15 year old, I think his idea of a great summer would be to hang out with his friends, but as his mom says, everyday he's starting to enjoy himself more and more. They are a super nice family and it was a nice treat to ride in a car to go to dinner. It's only been two weeks and already the simple pleasures have much more meaning. |
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